My girlfriend, Darcy and I, just returned from a two-week stay in Cuba. It’s our first time back since the pandemic. Though it’s now rainy season in Cuba, the weather couldn’t have been more perfect. Contrast that with the monsoon-like rains and bad air quality in Toronto while we were away, and I’m thankful we went when we did!
We had mimosas at the airport before our 6am flight. Alcohol at 3:30 in the morning, why the hell not? We’re on holiday!
We’ve been to the same resort annually since 2018 (with a two-year break because of Covid). Big shout-out to our friends at Melia Varadero! You can read my review on Trip Advisor about the wonderful people who work there.
A LITTLE BACKSTORY
Shortly after we returned from Cuba in 2020, the world shut down due to Covid.
The pandemic cut the flow of tourists bringing in the hard currency Cuba needed to buy food overseas. At the same time, Trump tightened restrictions on U.S. remittances to Cuba. We experienced this personally because our Cuban friends had Americans who wanted to help them but couldn’t. Several of them had to use us (Canadians) as intermediaries to send funds.
From July 11-17, 2021, triggered by a shortage of food, medicine, and the government’s failure to make good on its promise of economic and political reforms, protests against the Cuban government and the Communist Party of Cuba took place. Cuba does not have freedom of assembly; unauthorized public gatherings are illegal. Numerous charges and arrests were made, and nearly 200 dissidents and activists have since disappeared.
Then Russia invaded Ukraine in February 2022.
The island country is now facing its worst economic crisis since Soviet subsidies ended in 1991.
The Cuban government depends on Russia for oil, food and money. Some reports state they’re even allowing Cuban land to be leased for the first time to Russian investors.
Cuban President Miguel Diaz-Canel is seen as a puppet by his people.
It’s not good news for our Cuban friends, many who have left since we were there in pre-pandemic times.
CUBAN PERSEVERANCE
Three years later, we see the devastation and the ruin—in the lack of basic human needs, in line-ups for rations and fuel, in rolling blackouts throughout Cuba.
When a country must depend on tourists and family living elsewhere to afford what’s being sold in government-run stores, then something is terribly wrong. Food, clothing, household goods shouldn’t have to be purchased on the black market.
Amid an already fragile infrastructure, the government implemented currency reform on January 1, 2021, effectively ending their dual currency system. For roughly 16 years the Cuban convertible peso (CUC) had been the primary currency used in the tourism and private sectors, as well as for purchases of consumer goods. The state sector used the Cuban peso, known as the CUP.
It was just another wrinkle in travel to Cuba. We brought Canadian and US dollars with us. Despite the “non-relationship” with the US, their currency was king, with exchange rates set by a volatile, informal (black) market. Even the bank sets its rate against the black market!
And yet the Cuban people persevere. When we told friends we were coming in June, a few asked us: “What can we get you? Just give us a bit of time and we’ll find it for you.”
It’s a testament to the strength of Cubans—to their kindness, generosity, friendship, and pride for their country.
Covid was a difficult time for many in Cuba, and we wanted to return as soon as we felt safe, sans masks, and with as much needed goods as we could bring. Sending money was one thing, but not helpful when there was nothing to buy on the shelves.
GREETED AND TREATED LIKE FAMILY
Friends, Thais and Jorge, greeted us at the airport with flowers when we arrived in Varadero! It was a gorgeous day and we felt so happy to see Jorge again. He was our tour guide the last time we were in Cuba. We’d never met his wife, but had been in regular contact with her via social media since the pandemic. It was so amazing to finally meet her!
I almost threw out my knee from hauling our luggage around. Thankfully, the heavier pieces were on wheels, and all six of them arrived in Cuba intact—225 pounds in total.
I really needed that glass of Cava once we arrived at our hotel!
Our room’s balcony on the top floor overlooked the ocean. Along with our flowers were welcome gifts of mangos and bananas from Luisito.
During our stay, Darcy and I were invited for lunch with friends in their homes. It gave us a chance to see Cuban life away from the resort and have some of the best traditional Cuban meals of our trip.
We loved Thais’ rice and beans, banana chips, and fish!
Maria’s and Luisito’s family were so gracious, and the food was delicious! 
Thanks to Ibeiny for all the mangos, and to Pepito for the excellent snapper and introducing us to boniato—the Cuban sweet potato!
RETURN TO HAVANA
We stayed at an Airbnb in Plaza Vieja (Old Square), which rivals NYC. It never sleeps and neither did we! The square was filled with vendors, religious chanters and clappers, and general ruckus all night long. We would’ve preferred a more peaceful accommodation, but in the end, we had to laugh when 4am hit, and singing and clapping continued to fill the square!
Below is a shot of us at the Plaza the first day we arrived in Havana. In the background was a religious gathering. Little did we know how noisy it would become later!
Plaza Vieja at night is stunning. Our room was the top balcony in the middle building, underneath the striped awning on the right side. As you can see, there were people enjoying the nightlife right next to us.
A view of the opposite side of the Plaza. 
Some random pictures around Havana. Thanks to Darcy for taking many of them!
Our sweet ride when we left Havana, I think it was a ’57 Chevy.
This trip was about relaxing on the beach, learning more about life in Cuba, and reconnecting with friends who have become like family.
We left the country with twenty pounds of luggage between us, a few tears, many laughs, and beautiful memories.
Until next time, Cuba. ♥
Have a great week,
eden
edenbaylee.wordpress.com 
