Just a few weeks before my fellow pilgrims Bas and Herman visited this cell in October 2025 (see earlier posts on this blog), we also had the opportunity to spend a night in Kerasiá (23-9-2025).
Lavra- Kerasia: 16 km’s
We started our hike in Lavra and two of us chose to take the lower path along the Megali Sara/Dendrogalia, which in hindsight was perhaps not such a wise decision, as the path was difficult to navigate due to the steep slopes and the poor quality of the path with the many loose stones, as you can see on the footage below:
After the difficult stage of the Megali Sara, we reached the cell of Agios Neilou, where, to my surprise, hospitality is now offered in an archontariki.
When you leave Agios Neilou and head towards Kavsokalyvia, a relatively easy and well-paved path follows.
Pilgrim Gert Jan shows the way: the ‘easy’ path to KafsokaliviaKafsokalivia
From Kafsokalivia, a steep climb uphill begins until you reach a forest near Kerasia (see the slideshow below).
After the steep climb up: view of Kafsokalivia
From the forrest area you can reach the kellion of Agiou Antoniou, as shown on this sign in the slideshow and the map below. The card is now available for purchase on the FoMA website.
Late in the afternoon, we finally reached the Kerasia area; because the buildings and cells are so scattered, we could not find Father Theologos’s cell. Initially, we made the mistake of deviating from the main path at the first building we saw, the newly built marble church of Kerasia.
The new marble churchKerasia in detail
After taking another wrong turn, we asked a friendly monk from the Agios Apostolos cell for directions. Finally, at 5:00 PM, we reached our destination: Father Theologos’ cell in Kerasia, where we were warmly welcomed and where we met our fellow pilgrim Jitze again, who had wisely taken the easier high route through the forest and arrived much earlier.
The cell of father Theologos
Upon entering the kitchen, we were pleasantly surprised: we received a pizza with a cup of fresh water (for the first time on the Holy Mountain – and I didn’t see any delivery service)!
Pizza time for the three pilgrims in the kitch of the cell.
The Region of Central Macedonia has approved seven restoration and infrastructure projects at monasteries on Mount Athos, funded through the National Strategic Reference Framework (NSRF) with a total budget of € 5.3 million. The projects aim to preserve the unique cultural and religious heritage of Mount Athos while improving the safety and functionality of its historic buildings.
The works include:
Restoration of the katholicon and tower of the monastery of Karakallou.
The katholicon of the monastery, build in the 16th century, does not present any static problems and is generally in a fairly good state of preservation. The monastery tower, although of particular architectural interest due to its purely fortification character, has few written records and its dating is difficult. It is likely that it was built in the 16th century, during the renovation of the monastery, and it also does not present any structural problems, but significant damage that will be restored
2011: Karakallou, the defence tower and katholicon
2. Structural repairs of the southern court (western section), roof reconstruction, and facility upgrades at Koutloumousiou monastery.
Significant damage has been recorded and consolidation and maintenance work will be carried out, as well as the rearrangement of the accommodation areas and the reconstruction of the roof. Work is also planned on the bell tower,
2015: Koutloumousiou southern courtyard and katholicon
3. Remodeling of the 4th floor of the SW wing of the Xenophontos monastery.
The goal is to modernize the floor and resolve functional issues.
2018: Xenofontos: SW wing in the second courtyard
4. Restoration of the abandoned kalyvi of the Dormition of the Theotokos III in the Skete of Agia Anna.
The kalyvi has remained uninhabited since the 1980s and is currently in a state of abandonment and progressive collapse. Dense vegetation covers the surrounding area, while significant problems and damage are identified in the wooden structures (roofs, floors, window frames) and in the masonry that remain unprotected from the weather. The aim of the interventions is for the cell to maintain its traditional architecture and become fully functional again.
2025: Agia Anna
5. Stabilization of retaining walls and restoration of the Holy Archangels kalyvi in skiti Xenophontos (skete of the Annunciation).
The complex, built between 1899-1930, has been erected on steeply sloping ground, resulting in the gradual degradation of the retaining walls, the subsidence of the floors and the destabilization of the stonework. In addition, inadequate drainage has led to intense humidity, affecting the static adequacy of the load-bearing walls. Damage is found in many places, creating problems of functionality and safety for the monks.
2014: skiti Xenofontos
6. Conversion of the historic olive press at Simonos Petras monastery into an exhibition space with workshops.
The existing building, which was erected in 1851, is an important example of folk architecture and retains historical and functional interest, as a large part of its old mechanical equipment has been preserved. In the past, it was used as an olive press, almshouse and a place of hospitality, while its current form emerged after interventions in 1985.
2015: Simonos Petras
7. Restoration of part of Agiou Paul monastery and developing care spaces for the elderly.
Restoration of the 1st level of the NW wing and the develoment of a 200 m² care spaces for the elderly (nursing home). The planned works will be mild and will restore the problems of the space, which remained undeveloped for years.
2026: Agiou Pavlou
Regional Governor Athena Aidona emphasized that these projects will help safeguard Mount Athos’ architectural and spiritual heritage while ensuring its monasteries remain safe and functional for both the monastic community and the many pilgrims who visit each year.
Wim Voogd, June 30th 2026 (source voria.gr, thanks to Vaslis)
After a long, tiring journey from Dionysiou, we finally reached Kerasiá in the late afternoon. It didn’t take us too much effort to find the kellion. We were received most warmly and were given water and sweets to help us recover a bit. We enjoyed the refreshments on the terrace in front of the chapel. Afterwards, we went to the church, where the service had already begun. It was a somber but intense experience. Standing in the pews for a long time was hard on me, but the singing and recitation were uplifting. After the service, we were invited at the table.
One of the beautiful things about Kerasiá is that there is often no electricity. We ate by candlelight. The absence of electricity makes you realize how dependent we have become on this once modern technology. And how commonplace it has become. We see candles and oil lamps as something romantic, but here in Kerasiá, it is completely normal. There are only a few places left on Athos without, or with limited, electricity. The wonderful Stavronikita monastery is one of them.
This was our evening meal: a cold bean soup, bread to dip into the soup, water, a small glass of slightly sour wine, and for dessert, halva and an apple. We thoroughly enjoyed it in this sheltered space.
Kerasiá lies on the southern flank of the Holy Mountain, nestled between high rocky hills. Deep below, 500 meters beneath us, lie the arsanas and the sea. A lot of fruit and vegetables are grown here. It would not surprise me if this cell is largely self-sufficient.
Peaches also grow there in abundance. The unapproachable rocks rise almost vertically skyward. Pilgrim Herman stares into the distance at the horizon.
One of the monks turned out to be a beekeeper. Here he has taken one of the honeycombs out of the box and is examining the bee population. Although his head appears to be well protected by the mesh mask, his forearms are totally unprotected. He does, however, have a small canister with him from which smoke rises. A bellows is attached to it so that smoke can be produced quickly, if necessary.
The kellion consists of 3 floors and has entrances on two levels. This is the upper entrance. To the right, situated lower down at the level of the greenhouse, is a terrace, where there is another entrance. Laundry is hanging to dry on the veranda. There are also guest quarters upstairs. Two young pilgrims stayed there. There were also various guests from French-speaking Africa, who were traveling on to Paris the following day. They set off, accompanied by donkeys carrying their luggage, to the Kerasiá arsanas, situated 500 meters below. What a wonderful way to start your journey to Paris!
The interior of the new guesthouse where we spent the night. The new candles, which provided the only lighting, were already set out on the nightstands. The toilet is located on the basement, but you first have to go outside, where it is unusually dark, down a narrow and stony path. The mobile phone flashlight came to the rescue. The starry sky above Kerasiá was of unprecedented beauty. On this part of the Holy Mountain, there is virtually no light scattering, so it is pitch black and the stars are therefore extra visible. We looked up in wonder for a long time. Many satellites were also clearly visible.
The sheets were super clean but unfortunately still damp. That did not benefit the quality of the sleep. Unfortunately, our body heat didn’t dry the sheets, but rather the other way around: the damp sheets chilled our bones. By lying down fully clothed on scratchy blankets, we were still able to fall asleep.
The early morning the following morning. In the distance I saw various islands. Probably islands of the Sporades group and maybe Skyros. Experiencing this scene I thought of the rosy-fingered dawn.
A hidden house, probably the kellion Prodromou. With the shape of the red tiled roof, it looks more like a farmhouse. The old stucco and the old-fashioned chimney give a somewhat neglected impression.
We had some trouble finding the right path upwards. There are numerous small paths that lead to an olive grove terrace and dead-end there. Fairly quickly, however, we found a proper path upwards. Then you pass this beautiful stacked stone dome of a chapel on another kellion in Kerasiá. This photo also beautifully illustrates how Kerasiá is nestled between high, protective rocks. In front of you in the distance, the sea, and behind you, the Holy Mountain.
The largest chapel of the kellia in Kerasiá with its grey stone walls and its oxblood-red roofs, partly made of corrugated iron.
Kerasia is clearly visible in this satellite image. Amidst a sea of green (that is the surrounding forests), Kerasiá is lighter, due to the clearing of the forest for agriculture. The kellia are very scattered. From bottom to top, the difference in elevation is 150 meters. The kellion where we enjoyed hospitality is located at the very bottom of the map.
Next time I will make a post about our hike to Lavra.
On May 28, 2026 the website halkidinews.gr published an article about the plans to restore the historic Athoniada school. The text below is taken from their website:
Athonia Academy near Vatopedi in 2017 (photo Wim Voogd)
“One of the most important monuments of the Athonian heritage, the historic Athonia Ecclesiastical Academy on Mount Athos, is set to undergo restoration thanks to funding secured by the Region of Central Macedonia from the NSRF (or ESPA) […]. This paves the way for the implementation of a € 4.8 million project, which concerns the consolidation, restoration and reuse of the Athonia Academy.
The intervention includes the consolidation, maintenance, restoration and energy interconnection of the functionally autonomous section of the building complex of the Athonia Academy.
The first phase envisages the restoration of the building’s partial collapses and the uncovering of all the covered architectural elements. The preservation, maintenance and consolidation of the surviving parts of the walls, as they have survived to this day, as well as the completion of their collapsed parts, is the next step.
And this is followed by the complete and precise restoration of the part of the monumental complex to the condition it was in until its abandonment and final cessation of operation around the beginning of the 19th century, with the restoration of its damaged parts.
The small chapel in the middle of the ruined buildings (photo Wim Voogd)
For its functional use, the restored part of the monumental complex included in the first phase of the project will function as a workspace and accommodation for scientists and specialist technicians/ collaborators of Vatopedi, who are active in the study of history, architecture and art and in the study and preservation of the heritage wealth of the holy institution, as well as for the ministering fathers (for a video by Vatopedi of this project look here, screenshots of this video are used in this post to visualize the project).
In order to meet the complex’s large needs in electromechanical installations, the construction of a new underground building is being promoted, which will house the boilers, oil tanks, hydraulic distributions, electrical panels and will serve the complex as a supply area. Finally, the supply of all necessary materials and thorough archaeological research and work by the Ephorate of Chalkidiki and Mount Athos are planned.
[…]. It is noted that the old Athonia Academy was founded in 1749 – 1750 by Vatopedi, on the opposite hill, with the blessing of the Ecumenical Patriarch Kirill V. Athonia combined theological education, ancient Greek literature, philosophy, mathematics and natural sciences, transferring to Mount Athos the spirit of higher Greek education of the time. It was an important center of the Modern Greek Enlightenment and contributed substantially to the preservation of the Greek language, the Orthodox tradition and the spiritual culture of the Nation.”- soucre Halkidinews.gr.
After the break at Skiti Anna, we continued our way for the final leg of the day to our destination, Kerasiá. Jacques points the way up. From Skiti Anna, the path rises steeply, mainly via steps. There are far fewer mules on this route. Tthe steps are considerably cleaner and less smelly. The path ascends on the north side of a gorge. Then you walk more horizontally on the south side of the gorge towards the Stavros crosspoint.
A little further up, we came across an old sign pointing towards the Sacred Mountain. The holm oak curls around the rocks. In Japan, this tree would have been revered and adorned with ropes and rice paper. The path is easily passable almost everywhere. The steps are well maintained. However, there is loose gravel everywhere, so you have to be very careful where you place your foot. A fall is easily made, as one of us experienced repeatedly.
Some passages are not leveled and are a bit harder to walk. The holm oaks are old but look vital and they have survived many weather extremes; they are true survivors.
Someone had placed some stones on a small concrete plateau. I thought it would be a good idea to take a photo and look at what is written there later. But I still cannot read it. I can tolerate these kinds of lingering signs better than the scratched graffiti on prickly pear cacti. This can be undone again, too. The stony path runs just below the letters. Just before it stays level for a while. Then you know you have completed the climb to over 700 meters.
Suddenly, a majestic panorama of the west side of Mary’s Garden opens up. Below in the image is Skiti Anna, from where we departed. Above it is Nea Skiti. The beige patch is near Paulou; the tower on the beach is just barely visible.
This photo zooms in on Skiti Anna from above, like a bird’s-eye view. The triangle at the top is the central square of the Skiti. The church is also clearly visible, as are the guesthouses near the top red roof tiles.
I had zoomed in on Nea Skiti. The many solar panels are striking. Instead of vegetables and fruit, solar energy is now being harvested on the terraces. With as much sun as on the Holy Mountain, surely a worthwhile investment. It does distract somewhat from the landscape, but it is far preferable to the rumbling and stinking diesel generators.
The severe erosion is also clearly visible in the photo. One of the buildings seems to be almost disappearing into a gorge.
In the sea, the small round tower forms a nice detail.
We met two nice pilgrims and had a chat. I photographed them in front of this cross. Then, at their request, it was our turn to have our picture taken. On the left, Pilgrim Ebel, and on the right, your reporter. We had brought our walking sticks. Not an unnecessary luxury after all, and they also proved very useful in preventing falls. With the sticks, stability turned out to be much better once again.
Stavros is an important five-way crossing on the path. The place where the trek to the mountain really begins. The sign points to Panagia, the scruffy hut with double-decker beds, at 1,500 meters, the last human settlement before the chapel on the summit. The Romanians have made their own sign to the top.
The signage is sometimes a bit chaotic. As if various organizations, undoubtedly with the best intentions, took this upon themselves independently of one another. A little more coordination and alignment would certainly be desirable. Striking is the transparent sign pointing to a trash can 50 meters further on. Trash cans are a good idea, but it would be even better if everyone took their own waste off the mountain or left it at a monastery.
The path lies higher than the place in Kerasiá where we needed to be. So we had to descend quite a way again, well over 150 meters. The walking sticks came in handy here because the paths under the trees were covered in dead leaves. The network of paths in Kerasiá is a kind of grid, like in a modern city. It is easy to miss a turn or get lost here. There are no signs to guide you. The buildings are widely scattered and situated on a steep slope. Fortunately, there was a good app that helped us stay on course. Our kellion was at the very bottom of the map, at the red arrow.
The walk from Dionysiou, via Paulou and Skiti Anna to Kerasiá was a total of 11 kilometers. The total ascent is 938 meters (to the highest point, which is at 770 meters) and the total descent is 427 meters.
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Dionysiou: terracotta vessels
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One of our readers, Japetus from Greece, published this item on Reddit about an large marble altar found on a hill close to Kerasia:
Known as “Edolion” to the monks, a large marble altar is the only remnant of an ancient temple loacated at the south of Mount Athos, on a hill close to Kerasia.
According to the Reddit post the temple was dedicated to Artemis, and at that time an ‘avaton’ also applied. However, this prohibition did not apply to women then, but to all men, who were not allowed to enter the area (total the opposite of today!).
Hopefully, some day in the future, the Holy Community will allow excavations to be held at Mount Athos, as thefre are several ancient archaelogical cities located there. For the moment, the rules applied are that every scientific mission allowed to operate on Mt. Athos -on any field- should primarily concern the history of the Byzantine Athos.”
Another example of an ancient sacrificial altar near Skiti Profitou Eliou.
Due to this ban on excavations, the alleged ruins of the “Temple of Artemis” on Mount Athos are not a clearly identified archaeological site with a formal excavation history.
Historians and Athos traditions generally link them to the locations of the ancient pre-Christian settlements that once existed on the Athos peninsula before monasticism came into being.
The map above identifies several several classical-era towns mentioned by ancient writers including Herodotus, Strabo and Thucydides:
• Sane,
• Thyssos,
• Dion,
• Kleonai,
• Klementos,
• Apolonia,
• Charadrus,
• Olophyxos,
• and Akrothoon.
During my last stay in Docheiariou, I photographed this water tap. It is a so-called Bukranion (ox skull), which stood in pre-Christian times at a place where religious sacrifices were made, or which points to a cultic function.
At the arsanas of Docheiariou another Bukranion is reported, but I did not see/found it:
We were dropped off by a pickup truck at the entrance to the Paulou monastery. We went in to take a look around.
The view from the balcony of the guesthouse in Paulou. In recent years, hard work has been done to control the enormous stream of water that flows almost directly from the Holy Mountain. Now it was practically dry but it must be a violent stream after heavy rainfall. In this photo, you can clearly see how the river is channeled and with what force the water makes its way to the sea. In 1911, the monastery was struck by a flood. Therefore, the measures taken are sensible to prevent a recurrence.
Paulou also has beautiful terraces with olive trees.
A few photos of the interior of the monastery:
The foundation stone of the church. By Abbot Sophronios of the Lavra Monastery on April 23, 1844, the feast day of Saint George. In the image, a skull surrounded by angels, a sun, and a moon. Made of marble of the Lord, so it reads.
The courtyard with the katholicon, the battlements, and the bell tower.
The exonarthex of the katholicon with beautifully colored glass in bright and primary colors.
Another image of the church, with the covered walkway to the refectory. In the background are the monks’ quarters. Seen from this perspective, the monastery is enveloped by rugged mountains that tower above the high, protective walls.
To pick up the path again, we first had to walk down till 50 meters above sea-level. Just below the monastery is this small chapel from 1928. There is a special story connected with this pavilion. It commemorates one of the few woman who actually set foot on the Holy Mountain. In post 2086 the wonderful story of Princes Mara in 1470 is told by Wim.
It is one of the oldest buildings in the complex. By the looks of it, it has also been recently renovated and filled with pink mortar.
The same chapel among the olive trees from a slightly lower point of view. The monastery, the cloister gardens, and the Holy Mountain are clearly visible. The access stairs have also just been restored.
We took the coastal path towards Skiti Anna. The path rises to 300 meters. This is the part of Athos where there is no motorized traffic; it is simply too steep. The path consists mainly of steps. In this area, they transport everything by mules. You regularly come across caravans of mules. Here, where horsepower dominates, time seems to stand still even more than in other places on Athos. The rhythm of life here seems even more organic, even more authentic. As close to the Byzantine era as you can get. Along the path, which mostly consists of steps, you can come across stables where the pack animals can rest.
This mule driver with his Armani jacket came towards us with his line of five interconnected mules. Sometimes the steps were so full of mule droppings that it was difficult to avoid contact with the mostly dried excrements, leaving a sweet, corny smell.
After a considerable climb, the path leads through a small constructed tunnel. Suddenly, you can look down into the depths. The ferry, the Agia Anna, is sailing towards Dafni. Nea Skiti, with its medieval tower, is the visible village right above the sea. Paulou is hidden behind the hill, and Simonos Petras is visible, albeit with difficulty, if you know roughly where to look.
Another mule transport, this time with three animals. The mule driver was swaying on the lead mule.
A glance back at, if I am not mistaken, Agiou Georgiou Kartsonaion. It is beautifully situated autonomously on a prominent headland.
End point for this mule transport to a construction site. The mules have hauled scaffolding parts and planks uphill and are being unloaded here. It remains amazing how much renovation work is taking place on the Holy Mountain. In the background, the arsanas of Skiti Anna. Three hundred meters down, all with steps.
The entrance door of Skiti Anna.
The central square of the skiti with the kiosk, where we were generously received with plenty of water, tsipourou, lakoumi, and coffee. The reception in Anna is always very friendly and hospitable. Like the time we came down in dusk from the summit of the Holy Mountain in 2011, slightly after closing time. But they served a wonderful dish for the hungry.
We stayed there for at least half an hour to recover, to dry off, and to recharge for the climb that still awaited us.
Next time about the final part of this stage: to Kerasiá.
We left Dionysiou quite early that morning. After all, we still had a long way to walk and would have to climb steeply to Kerasia. We took the coastal path towards Paulou. The path is located about 50 meters above sea level and maintains a reasonable elevation, winding around a bay. Just before the port of Paulou, there is a steep descent to sea level.
Here I look back once more at the monastery of Dionysiou, which, viewed from this side, clearly displays its terraces on ten levels. The crops on the lower terraces have already been harvested. The entrance gate is located just above the solar panels. A horizontal path leads there, past the green, red, and dark blue painted buildings. The defensive tower with its battlements dominates the complex. Many buttresses are needed to support the overhanging dwellings. From a distance, they look like Mikado sticks. The monastery’s color palette is beautifully subdued in the early morning light.
The arsanas is empty except for a single small boat.
Weblog master Herman also looks back at Dionysiou. Fellow pilgrims Jacques and Ebel in the background are getting ready to start the hike. In the background, a few of the many olive trees standing there on the sunny slope.
A typical phenomenon that I have addressed before in this blog. Graffiti on the Holy Mountain. It is something you do not expect here, something you do not want to see here either. These prickly fig cacti had been carved by several people by cutting into the thorny plant with knives, leaving behind legible scars on the plants. Unnecessary and undignified in this holy garden of Mary.
Pilgrim Herman descends the path to sea level at the port of Paulou. It is a quiet morning, the sea has barely any waves, and there is virtually no wind. The signpost of the Friends of Mount Athos (FoMA) stands in the center of the scene. It is wonderful that FoMA offers that service. Given the high risk of getting lost on the Holy Mountain, the signs are also more than welcome on our pilgrimages.
Practically the same spot in the winter of 2014/2015 when we walked this path with our children. A considerable amount of snow had fallen the day before.
The tower at the harbor of Paulou was renovated not so long ago. For years it was a desolate ruin. The monastery of Paulou is visible in the middle of the picture. The first rays of the sun are just coming over the mountain ridge. In the background is the summit of the Holy Mountain. We once stood on top of it. That probably won’t happen again, given our age and condition. Viewed from this side, the summit (the summit in the middle) seems almost unwalkable. Fortunately, the other side of the Holy Mointain is less steep and stony and features a good path leading up.
A photo I took in 2011. Still ruinous then, now a gem. It looked like someone was living there by now. We saw a lushy vegetable garden.
The first morning sun on Paulou.
With this photo, I zoomed in more on the monastery, with its beautiful battlements, terraces, and cypresses. Walking along the boring dirt road on the way to Paulou, a very friendly driver stopped and offered us a lift up the mountain to the monastery. Once at the top, he dropped us off right in front of the entrance.
More about Paulou and the continuation of the hike next time.
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